Pho An; The Pho Supercentre

27 Greenfield Pd, Bankstown, Sydney, Australia. (02) 9796 7826

By GF Jones

Pho An is like no other pho restaurant this correspondent has experienced. There is a standard look to a pho cafe; they are basic and cheaply furnished, typical decorations being pastel pictures of horses splashing freely through streams, a fish tank, and a clock in the shape of Vietnam. The focus is on the food, all else is simply so diners don't have to sit on the floor, and to provide something calming to look at whilst they await their keenly anticipated bowl of pho. The first thing noted about Pho An is that it's not like the others. First, there is a modern sign with a slogan, take a few more steps and be gobsmacked by a swishy electric sliding door. Venturing inside on slightly unsteady feet, I am surprised to find it looks like a boarders dining room, with none of the familiar decoration. It's an immense cavern, big enough to be a furniture store, decorated with glittery lacquered plates such as those sold to tourists in Vietnam.

Sitting down, I have mixed feelings. It is early on a weekday morning, and quite a number of locals are dropping by for breakfast and business meetings. There is no menu, all they serve is many variations of pho, listed on a board without an English translation. This is looking good and it certainly has a reputation, but the room does not suggest this is a magical place with secret recipes. The waiters come with electronic notepads, and I order Pho Tai.

It is served up quickly and efficiently. My first taste of the broth is disappointing, and I reach for the Sriracha. Whilst not a bad pho, it is certainly not one which inspires. This is a restaurant highly recommended, and clearly very popular, but it lacks the hearty soul I crave in a pho. It's mass produced and leaves me without a pho glow, I leave and walk solemnly to the station to catch the train to work.

Verdict - Just a bit too slick.